🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.